When I RSVP'd to my cousin's wedding in Abilene, Texas, put in for my vacation time and laid out the airfare, I envisioned eight arid days of sunnin', swiggin' and square dancin' before stumbling back to work wearing a battered cowboy hat from God know's where and dealing out amusing anecdotes of moonshine and hijinx that rolled off the tongue as smoothly as the finest sweet tea.
Granted, my long-overdue visit with the southwestern branch of the Doyle family was very different -- to my surprise, I found myself rolling up my sleeves and working as hard putting this wedding together in the few days I was there as any of the bridesmaids -- but the trip was all the more satisfying and unforgettable because of it.
If it takes a village to raise a child, I learned it can take an entire Texas town to marry one off. I've straddled the fence with the whole matrimony thing -- depending on which side of the bed I wake up on, I either want nothing to do with it, or I want it extremely low-key, or I want to be a princess for a day like any five-year-old practicing on her Barbie and Ken dolls. But I was genuinely smitten with how familiar and friendly - and FUN - my cousin Amanda's wedding to Tanner was, easily rivaling any overdone affair I've been to up here in NYC. They picked a beautiful space for the reception hall, but the ambiance was all the more gorgeous because friends, family and the wedding party spent a good four hours sweating to decorate it ourselves the day before. Instead of a professional caterer, all the food was homemade. An uncle slow-roasted almost two dozen Texas beef briskets himself for 24 hours beforehand, and believe me -- as a lover of red meat, these babies tasted as fine as any five-star restaurant steak -- and then the leftovers were actually auctioned off during the wedding by a professional Texan auctioneer, with proceeds lining the newlyweds' pockets just in time for their honeymoon in Jamaica. Everyone pitched in, in their own way, and the end result was a truly memorable day.
However, it made the first leg of the vacation very, very exhausting, haha. In the immediate days following the wedding, I swore up and down that I'm eloping in lieu of this nonsense.
I flew into Texas with my grandparents on a Wednesday evening, switching from a Boeing 767 in Dallas-Fort Worth Airport to a smaller, "American Eagle" flier for the 45-minute jaunt from Dallas to historic Abilene. Granted, the latter flight was delayed 20 minutes after the bridge became STUCK to the airplane door. And thus, we were reintroduced to the quirks of small-town life.
Picking up baggage at the Abilene airport took five seconds, because there's only one gate, heh. Driving to Amanda and Tanner's new house (to my grandmother's chagrin, they've been living in sin) was about a 15-minute ride, and I looked out the window of uncle's pickup truck as we rushed past brown rolling fields dotted with windmills and stubby mesquite trees. We weren't in the car two minutes before my uncle began bitching about the 'goddamn Mexicans.'
Amanda and Tanner's house is adorable, and exemplifies how the standard of living in the countryside is a thousand times better than in NYC. Their three-bedroom house is spacious; there's a large fenced-in backyard perfectly suited for their two boxers, and the kitchen and dining room bask in plenty of natural light.
The mortgage on their house each month is less than my share of the rent in a fifth-floor walkup apartment in East Harlem that I share with two other girls.
Anyway, on that first night the family had a nice little visit; we ate cold cuts and drank Coors Light and caught up. Everyone left, and I stayed with Amanda and Tanner, since they offered to put me up for the week -- in fact, I remained in their house after they jetted to Jamaica, leaving me to feed the dogs and enjoy the air conditioning and the cable and imagine what it would be like to own my own house.
The next morning we had to get up bright and early; it was two days before the wedding, and there was plenty to do. The happy couple and I got lunch at Abilene's best Mexican restaurant (and it was GOOOD) but then Amanda and I got mani/pedis for the wedding; picked up some lights for the reception hall; did a final wedding dress fitting (and oh goodness, it was so beautiful; even I was welling up looking at her in it!) then brought the dress back to my aunt's house for safekeeping; at some point we organized wedding materials; then we showered and went to the area's best steak house; where for reasons unknown, I chose to order the fried catfish rather than their legendary steak. The family won't let me hear the end of it. We washed the meal down with some beers at a local bar with friends, and then we came home.
Friday dawned with us yawning our heads off at the reception hall as we proceeded to decorate -- setting up tables and chairs, laying out tablecloths, decorating with Christmas lights, carrying boxes of supplies up the stairs, filling up the fish bowls with water and Beta fish on some tables (as favors) and vases of flowers or votive candles on the others -- and then realizing there's too many flowers on this side, too many fish on that one ... Then we're wrapping gifts for the wedding party, parents and grandparents (I burned my knee with the iron while ironing handkerchiefs ... yeah ...) and going to the wedding rehearsal -- which my perfectionist cousin made them run through like three times :P
Then the rehearsal dinner with some homemade Tex Mex. Mmmmm-hmmmm.
Then passing out!
Wedding day went by in a blur, but it was beautiful. I did end up borrowing someone's cowboy hat, as well as learning the Texas half-step (and here, I never usually dance at weddings ...)
Actually, EVERYONE dances in a Texas wedding; young and old alike, and it's really refreshing. Granted, it's country music, but everyone is having a blast, and the Cha-Cha Slide and the Chicken Dance get sprinkled in there, too. Auctioning off the leftovers is apparently NOT a wedding staple down there, but I think it should be. Besides being hilarious, some of those briskets went for almost $400 apiece! Talk about putting your money where your mouth is ...
I went out with my cousin Ray (Amanda's brother) and some of his friends afterward, and was amused to see that the line-dancing continues in many of the bars/dance halls. Mechanical bulls are also the norm. The beer is under $3, and the cover for most of these places is $3 as well. I can certainly get behind that ...
However, my cousin was in his Marine blues and on the prowl, so I was feeling a little neglected and a little bored, and was more than happy to retire after last call ... which is at 1 a.m. How sad. That's one place where NYC has Tejas spanked.
Sunday (day after the nuptials) was a day of recovery, and so I looked forward to Monday and Tuesday to soak up some of what I'd been looking forward to as far as "Texas Culture" --- tanning in the sun, this alleged moonshine, cowboy hat stores, etc. But it gets SO hot out there -- it was over 100 degrees every single day, and at least 103 degrees on the day of the wedding -- that there is no sitting outside. You go out in the early a.m. and then after sunset unless you absolutely have to run errands, and even then, you're just hopping from one air conditioned oasis to another. The dogs don't get fed until 9, 10, 11 at night, because they won't eat until after it cools down. Oh, and with my cousins, the "raw diet" for their dogs is all the rage --- putting raw chicken/liver on top of high-end kibble. Keeps 'em healthy and their hair shiny. Handling the raw meat is also pretty gross, though.
There were enough quiet moments in between the madness, however: sipping a beer on the porch swing at my Aunt Mo's and seeing a shooting star arch across the sky, or all the fabulous (fattening) food I tasted, the beer I knocked back and the bellyful of laughs with the family (and political debates, seeing how my liberal views on most topics defy the norm down there) and hanging out with Amanda and Tanner's boxers, which I dog-sat for the remainder of my stay.
Flying back to New York today was relatively uneventful. While the bridge didn't stick to the plane at LaGuardia, we did have to wait over 20 minutes to claim our baggage, and I hit traffic on the 20-minute cab ride back to Manhattan. There's some bittersweet feelings to seeing the windmills being replaced by skyscrapers, but there was a jaunt in my step as I flip-flopped my way to the supermercado after checking back into SpaHa. It's my home, you know? As stressed as I am about going back to work (all the news I missed out on this week -- Russia and Georgia, the Olympics, Edwards' affair and a couple of celebrity deaths) there's something reassuring about laying my head on my own pillow and rooting around for my MetroCard.
Yet--
I'm back in my room now, dissatisfied with my living arrangements on the one hand (living out of boxes does not an adult make) but relieved to be back where I understand things, nonetheless. NYC is home, you know? Getting drinks with Ginessa on Friday, seeing Justin again soon, nuzzling with small cat and being able to party til (at least) 4 a.m.
But I also look forward to keeping some of the Abilene dust on my heels a little bit longer; holding on to that sense of security and restfulness I felt down there (even when elbow-deep in wedding work) as well as the civility -- everything is "yes sir" and "yes ma'am," please and thank you. When my cousin's plumbing backed up, we called another cuz (who's a professional plumber) and he dropped everything and was over in five minutes with his truck, and had everything in working order within a matter of minutes, sipping a Corona while he worked. That's the way things work down there -- if you need help, whether it's an overflowing toilet or a wedding, just hollar and someone will be over in a jiffy. And then you crack open a couple of cold ones and jaw about life, the universe, everything.
It's something to aspire to.