McSorley's
It is a Saturday night in late January, and the year’s first heavy snowfall is pounding New York City’s East Village. Snow piles against the window panes, and a relentless storm of snowflakes blankets the streets and sidewalks outside McSorley’s Old Ale House on E. 7th Street just off Cooper Square.
Inside the oldest tavern in New York, established in 1854 – familiarly called "McSorley’s" by regulars, local students and tourists drawn to its antique charm and cheap, simple fare – the patrons slam their glass mugs onto round tables of warped, dark wood, almost oblivious to the storm outside. There is the occasional whirling draft of snow and cold air as the outer entrance opens and then the old batwing doors swing wide, letting in men and women who stomp the snow from their boots onto the sawdust carpeting the wooden floors before bellowing cheery greetings to friends. They order rounds of beer at $4 for two mugs from the tap, offered only in McSorley’s light or McSorley’s dark. The individual looking for a Budweiser, Heineken or a shot of something harder can take their money elsewhere. McSorley’s carries on today much the way it did under its original founder, Old John McSorley, who believed working men didn’t need a stronger drink than a mug or two of ale, according to Joseph Mitchell’s essays in "McSorley’s Wonderful Saloon."
Old John passed ownership of the bar to his son, Bill, whose principal concern was to keep McSorley’s exactly as it had been in his father’s time. The subsequent owners have also sought to preserve the tavern’s original character and atmosphere.
The sign "Be Good or Be Gone" has been moved from the back room to behind the bar up front, but it is still there. The American flag embroidered as a gift to Old John by the only woman John would serve, a widowed peddler called Mother Fresh-Roasted who sold peanuts carried in her apron, still hangs on the wall. The pot-bellied stove burns coal, and customers warm their hands over the flames even as earlier patrons would once warm their ale. The bar still serves cheese, crackers and raw onions, as it has done since the 19th century. The smell of the onions is as strong as the spicy mustard kept in glass mugs on each tabletop slick with spilt beer.
The walls are congested with an eclectic array of memorabilia, from portraits of Presidents Theodore Roosevelt and John F. Kennedy to yellowing newspaper clippings chronicling McSorley’s history with headlines: "Raise a Glass to the Bar that Time Forgot," and "Oldest Tavern in U.S. Won’t Allow Women."
McSorley’s is not completely unchanged – women are now served at the bar. They wander the backroom in defiance of the ban that kept them out for over a century. According to Mitchell, Old John believed it impossible for men to "drink with tranquility" in the presence of women. Women were not allowed into the tavern until as recently as 1970. A ladies’ restroom now stands obstinately beside the entrance to that of the men. One girl in low-rise jeans leans over a table to get her bag. Her male friend slyly pours beer down the back of her pants while she is in this compromising position. As she shrieks and jumps into his lap, one doubts Old John would have approved.
The tavern still manages to attract visitors with its timelessness despite the creeping advance of the present. The prose of E.E. Cummings, "I was sitting in McSorley’s. Outside it was New York and beautifully snowing," just as easily applies to this night in 2005 as it did in 1923.
"The thing about McSorley’s is that every time I come here, the experience is the same," says one grizzled veteran, Emerson, a 53-year-old Continental Airlines pilot who has been frequenting the bar since the late 80s.
His companion Louise, 52, and fellow pilot Dennis, 57, and Dennis’s wife Marcia, 53, have been sitting in the bar room of McSorley’s for the past five hours. Now after 10 p.m., their faces are flushed, and they gladly buy rounds for the graduate students sitting before them from New York University. The two generations separated by over 30 years raise their mugs in the air and toast to the New Year, to the blizzard and to meeting new friends. McSorley’s cozy atmosphere still encourages sitting and conversation.
After the bartender has clapped down several rounds of drinks, often carrying eight mugs at once in each red fist, the students and pilots exchange email addresses and plan to reunite at the bar in the future. The pilots impart the wisdom they have gained during their years to their new young friends. "Live each day to the fullest," advises Louise. "Find someone that you are passionate about," says Marcia.
"And if that doesn’t work out," chimes in Emerson, "go down to McSorley’s!"
--End--
--- Nicole Lyn Pesce
Now let's just hope that Professor Serrin likes this!



